How to Build a Fall Capsule That Doesn't Feel Like a Uniform

Capsule wardrobes have a reputation problem. Done badly they turn into a uniform, and by November you resent every one of the twelve things you own.

The fix is to build around a palette rather than a list. Pick three colours that sit next to each other quietly — camel, cream and charcoal, say, or navy, grey and a soft rust — and let everything you add belong to one of them. When everything shares a family, almost any two pieces work together, and that's where the freedom comes from.

Then buy in the order you'll wear things. A coat first, because it's on top of everything and everyone sees it. Then trousers, because you'll wear them more than you expect. Then knitwear, which is where you can afford to be a bit more interesting.

Leave two slots empty on purpose. Not for basics — for the things you'll find in October that you couldn't have predicted in September. A capsule with no room in it is just a smaller wardrobe.

And be honest about the life you actually have. Most of us dress for a life with more dinners in it than we really go to.